I spent my last two weekends between Chulilla and Cuenca, and I cannot be more happy with the results. I know that sometimes the results are not the best thing to look at, and normally I don't pay so much attention on what number I climb, but this two weekends I felt more stronger than ever in any strenght aspect I can think about!
|Starting the Upper Crux of "Nikita" 8b, Cuenca|
All Started two weeks ago with a two days trip to Chulilla with Moni, Alfon and Inés. It was my first time there and I got really amazed with the potential that this area has. At saturday all began quite well. We went to "la pared de enfrente" sector, and after warming up, I started the day onsighting "el Ramallar" 8a, that being realistic felt not much harder than a 7c, even if the route is a "King line". Convinced by Inés, I moved to "el Infierno" 8b, to put up the draws and give it an overview. The route looked like it was exactly my style, even that, just I started to climb I broke a hold on the entrance crux (which is clearly the hardest part). With a desesperate second go, I tried to solve the bouldery and crimpy entrance crux. Even that, I was unable to find the right beta, so we left the quickdraws on the route to return next day with the idea of taking them off.
At Sunday something went different. We went up to the sector just to take down the draws, but encouraged again by Inés I tried to solve the crux and Eureka! I finded the right beta! Just I went down and after resting a little bit, I gave it my 4th try and I sended "el Infierno", 8b!!!
Psyched with the good feelings, I decided to give an onsight try to "Entre dos Caminos" 8a, and after the most pumpy and redlining try of my life, I sended my first onsight 8a! Thanks for the patience!
Moving to the last weekend, we went to Cuenca and clearly I still had the luck on my side. At saturday with Guille and Paulo, I went to "el sombretivo" sector with the Idea of trying a route I was projecting my last two visits there. After a good first try, and a second try where I fell on the last move, I sended Nikita 8b on the 3rd go of the day! Really felt the difference between trying this line with good conditions! Thanks Guille for the photos!
Now time to move on, recover my quite damaged finger skin, and think over the Catalan Climbing Championship that will take place in two weeks near my hometown!!